Debatable is a column written by the Otago University Debating Society. The Debating Society welcomes new members and meets at the Business School every Tuesday at 6pm.
For
As someone who occasionally indulges in retail therapy, I may be a bit delusional and hypocritical in thinking my Glassons and Zara purchases can be justified. However, despite my delusions, it's common knowledge that the fast fashion industry is incredibly harmful, both ethically and environmentally, so how can these purchases ever be justified?
Everyone needs clothes, and everyone should have the opportunity to express themselves with clothing and wear what makes them happy and comfortable. While sustainable fashion is a growing market, the vast majority of companies are quite expensive and lack variety in styles, which can be justified by their seeking to create basics that can last a long time through any trend. However, it does not negate that a large majority of companies can only be afforded by a certain economic sector (though would love some affordable suggestions).
Thrifting is another sustainable alternative and, while there is more variety and affordability, as someone who goes thrifting, it can be incredibly time-consuming to find something you like, and not every person has the luxury of time. Thus, fast fashion's biggest justification is its price point and accessibility. Fast fashion offers a large amount of choices, accommodating many style preferences across all seasonal needs and trends for a large sector of the population, breaking down a lot of geographical and socio-economic barriers. It makes it easier for more people to express themselves through fashion in a quick and affordable way.
The conversation on fast fashion needs to be directed more at society’s overconsumption. Buying clothing for one-off themed parties is more of an issue than buying jeans from Zara and wearing them multiple times. Plus, textile and clothing waste will not go away with the downfall of the fast fashion industry. As someone who volunteered at an op shop for the majority of her high school experience, the vast majority of clothing donated sadly gets thrown away. Fast fashion’s affordability and adaptability to trends and styles makes it more justifiable than people may believe, and allows for more inclusivity and accessibility for a large number of consumers around the world.
Against
As its namesake suggests, fast fashion is fashion made fast, usually cheap, and made in response to the latest trends. On closer inspection, it is more simply defined as shit clothes that promote overconsumption and throw-away culture, leading to negative social and environmental impacts. Fast fashion cannot be sustainable and ethical by nature; therefore, there is no justification that can be given that would outweigh any negatives that go along with it.
The quick output of clothing leads to a large volume of raw materials, eventually creating a significant amount of waste, pollution, and natural degradation, making fast fashion one of the most wasteful industries in the world. Each year, the industry acts as the second-biggest consumer of water, responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions (more than the aviation and shipping industries combined) and loads half a million tons of microfibers into waterways. New Zealand's yearly contribution to this pollution is around 180,000 tons of clothing and textile waste. A large amount of clothing and textile waste is composed of synthetic materials. The quality of the material is so poor that it is almost impossible to recycle, even if brands “ensure” they recycle a certain amount of used or unsold products (only 1% of clothing overall is actually recycled).
Fast fashion affects more than the environment. The industry has also accumulated a large amount of societal issues, especially within developing countries. It’s always been a labour-intensive but low-capital industry, with the exploitation usually on developing nations due to lenient regulations and cheap labour. The rapid production means that the profits often outweigh the human welfare of the individuals making the clothes. The industry relies on child labour and forced labour, with workers subjected to long hours in unsafe conditions. 80% of apparel workers are young women between ages 18 and 24, whose wage is four times less than that of a liveable wage. Therefore, no matter how much you adore the latest trend, ask yourself: is it really worth it? Is it really worth putting the environment and human welfare in jeopardy? I don’t think so. Instead of spending your money on fast fashion, invest your money in more sustainable brands or thrifting.